| Luxury
creates approximately $160 billion a year in global industry,
encompassing make up, skin and hair care, fragrances, cosmetic
surgery, health club and diet pills. Americans spend more
each year on beauty than they do on education. Such spending
is not mere vanity.
"Good looks are
a woman's most fungible asset, exchangeable for social position,
money, even love".
Basic instinct keeps the beauty
industry powerful. In medieval times, recipes for homemade
cosmetics were kept in the kitchen right beside those used
to feed the family. But it was not until the start of the
20th century, when mass production coincided with mass exposure
to an idealized standard of beauty (through photography, magazines
and movies) that the industry first took off.
In 1909 Eugene Schueller founded
the French Harmless Hair Colouring Company, which later became
L'Oreal – todays industry leader. Two years later, Paul
Beiersdorf, a Hamburg pharmacist, develops the first cream
to bind oil and water. Today, it sells in 150 countries as
Nieva, the biggest personal –care brand in the world.
Around the same time, in Tokyo's upmarket Ginza, Arinobu Fukuhara
hit on eudermine lotion, the first Japanese cosmetic based
on a scientific formula, and the first product for the Shiseido
company.
Elizabeth Arden opened the first
modern beauty salon in 1910, followed a few years later by
Helena Rubinstein, a Polish immigrant. They combined facials
with diets and exercise classes in a holistic approach that
the industry is now returning to.
The global beauty industry consisting of skin care worth $24bn;
make-up $18bn, $38bn of hair care product; and $15bn of perfumes
– is growing at up to 7% a year, more than twice the
rate of the develop world's GDP. The sector market leader,
L'Oreal, has had compound annual profit growth of 14% for
13 years. Sales of Beiersdorf's Nivea have grown at 14% a
year over the same period.
In India sales of anti-ageing creams are growing by 40% a
year. While Brazil has more "Avon Ladies" (900,000)
than it has men and women in its army and navy.
The juicy returns are attracting
new entrants. The house hold goods giants Unilever and Procter
& Gamble "P&G", facing maturity in many
of their traditional business are devoting more resources
to their beauty divisions – as evidence by P&G's
current $6.5bn offer for Germany's Wella, a hair care company,
to bolster its earlier purchase Clairol, a hair dye business.
Simon Clift, marketing head of Unilever's personal-care business
(including its big Dove and Sunsilk brands)
Most Luxury goods now have perfume
brands, and many (like Dior, Channel and Yves St Laurent)
are selling make up and creams too. LVMH, the biggest luxury
goods group of all, has moved into retailing with its Bliss
spas and Sephora shops (which sells make up).
The focus on the science has
led to some genuinely new ideas, such as face cloths impregnated
with cleaners that combine surfactant and paper technology.
As yet, though, most of it is pseudo-science. Shiseido's recent
international lunch of its new body creator skin gel claims
that its fat-burning pepper and grapefruit oil can melt 1.1kg
of body fat in a month without any need to diet or exercise.
At last years lunch in Japan customers bought a bottle every
3.75 seconds.
Beauty firms spend just 2-3%
of their sells on research and development- compared with
15% by the pharmaceuticals industry. On the other hand, they
spend a whopping 20-25% on advertising and promotion. And
new companies like Pout are attracting attention with lipsticks
labeled "Lick my lolly" and "Bite my cherry".
Scott Beattie, Elizabeth Arden's boss, says that its marketing
budget, which grew by 25% in 02, will rise by another 40%
this year. Avon plans to hike its advertising by 50%.
Revlon, once one of the biggest make-up brands, has been tottering
on the age of bankruptcy. It's current boss, Jack Stahl, a
former president of Coca cola is fighting to get the business
back on track. Unilever which is facing slowing growth overall,
is stranded in no-man's-land. It sold the great Elizabeth
Arden brand and missed out on the boom in hair color.
The only real growth is coming
through huge grocery chains such as Wal-Mart that want to
deal with just hand food of suppliers. That is good news for
P&G and L'Oreal (which already gains two third of its
revenues from mass retailers.) But Este'e Lauder and Revelon
are more dependent on unfashionable department stores where
sells are declining and selling cost are high.
The first is cosmetic surgery,
already a $20bn business, which has been growing and innovating
by leaps and bounds. The number of cosmetic procedures have
increased in America by over 220% since 1997. Old favourities,
such as liposuction, breast implant and nose jobs, are being
overtaken by botox injections to freeze the facial muscles
that cause wrinkless, with the number of these up by more
than 2,400% since 1997, botox injection have become the most
common procedure of all. Cosmetic dentistry is also a booming
business. Jeff Gloub, Manhattan dentist to stars like Kim
Catrall of "Sex and City", dubs himself a "smile
designer". Tooth whitening is the botox of the cosmetic
dentistry business.
Americas leading plastic
surgeons, says "Ten years ago you could reconstruct a
womens breast for $12000 – now it can be done for $600.
In "Branded", a book
on marketing to teenagers, Alisa Quart notes that in America
the number of teen age brest implants and liposuctions rose
by 562% between 1994 and 2001. There is a cynical marketing
phrase for all this: helping "kids look older younger".
A number of new books have have begun to question the ethics
of marketing beauty products and services to adults too.
The fashion industry's exposure to this spring's three big
economic shocks: SARS, the war in Iraq and the rise of the
euro against the dollar. Revenues from exports are mostly
in dollar and Yen, and thus sharply down into euro turns:
while cost remains primarily in euros, as luxury goods are
mostly manufactured in Europe.
"Fashion really is dependent on tourism, particularly
by rich Asians coming to Europe."
In the past decade thanks not
least to the stock market bubble, Gucci sunglasses, Prada
handbags and Louis Vuitton suitcase became must have items
for many thousands of middle class buyers. Despite their huge
stable of Luxury names, LVMH, Prada and Gucci are still heavily
dependent on just one label.
Philippa Ilincic, manager at Gucci Luxury timepieces seems
ambivalent about a "popcorn" barcelet that her group
sells for $105 to attract new customers.
Prada, which remains family owned and is run by Patrizio Bertelli,
the husband of its designer Miucci Prada, has failed to complete
the IPO of its shares it desperately needs to reduce its burden
of debt, said to be $27.5mio. There are rumours that it may
follow the sale of its stakes in Churchs, a shoe maker, and
in Fendi by also selling its Jil Sander and HelmutLang brands.
Yet Prada is being the boldest, splashing out $87m on a sci-fi-style
store in Tokyo, said to be the biggest investment by an Italian
company in Japan since the Second World War.
Fashion |
Brand |
Sales $ bn in F03 |
Ch% |
Op margin |
|
| Louis Vuitton |
3.80 |
16 |
45 |
50% business from Japan |
| Prada |
1.95 |
0 |
13.0 |
|
| Gucci |
1.85 |
-1.0 |
27.0 |
|
| Herm's |
1.57 |
7.7 |
25.4 |
|
| Coach |
1.20 |
34.0 |
29.9 |
|
As it is ….
Fashion is the third largest
employer in New York after health care and finance. It keeps
much of the advertising industry going; it plays a vital part
in the retail trade; and, in a world of trade disputes and
cotton subsidies, it is politically sensitive. Fashion industry
today have only three centres of powers; Paris, Milan and
New York. Paris represents the traditional of haute couture
("high sewing", ie custom dressmaking) and its pret-a-porter
(ready to wear) offspring; Milan reflects generations of northern
Italian craftsman-ship, especially in textiles, shoes and
leatherwear; and New York represents casual smartness and
a century of powerful retailers such as Saks Fifth Avenue,
Barneys and Bergdorf Goodman. With due defence to Giorgio
Armani in Milan or Ralph Lauren in New York, the true capital
of fashion is undoubtedly Paris. It is home to the most famous
brands, such as Chanel, Dior and Hermes. It is the headquarters
of the biggest conglomerate, LVMH, controlled by Bernard Arnault,
and the home of his rival, Francois Pinault, who controls
the third biggest conglomerate the Gucci Group.
The reason is both history and
design. In 1858 Nepoleon III, wanting nothing but the best
for his wife, Empress Euginie, asked Charles Frederick Worth,
and English dressmaker who had become a big hit in Paris,
to design her wardrobe. One royal commission led to many others,
right across Europe, and then to cheaper copies of Worth's
creations. To protect would now be called his intellectual
property, worth in 1868 founded the Chambre Syndicale de la
Haute Couture to promote and market Parisian tailoring.
Today France's fashion and luxury
goods industry, as defined by government statisticians, represents
some 2000 firms, 200000 jobs and 5% of total industrial production.
Include the textile industry, with 60000 employees, plus packaging
and buttling firms, and the share of individual activity rise
to 8%. Then count in things like advertising, graphic design,
showroom management, video production and media coverage,
and it all begins to add up to real economic weight.
And thus "Up growing Metro sexuality"
"Metrosexual", a term
coined a few years ago to identity straight urban male who
enjoy such things as shopping and using beauty products. It
is sometime described in lad mags as being "just gay
enough" to get the babes. Mr Beckham says Ms Salzman(Euro
RSCG Worldwide, a leading advertising agency), is a classic
metrosexual. Ms Salzman has tested the market and concludes
that 30-35% of young men in America have metrosexual tendencies:
tell-tale signs including buying skin care cream and fragrances.
This matters: the grooming market for young males in NA was
worth around $ 8bn last year, and is growing fast. Some big
firms are cottoning on to this, which suggest that metrosexuality
– or something it- may actually exist. Last year, when
Unilever launched Axe
in America (Lynx in some markets) as a fragrant all over body
spry, it said: "Personal care and grooming, traditionally
the provinces of women, are in increasing in importance to
young man, and this trend is expected to increase".
The relationship became strained when David Beckham met his
wife Victoria, a British pop singer known as Posh Spice, and
developed this "fashion thing".
David Beckham is the third most valuable sporting personality
in the world after America's basketball legen, Michael Jordan,
and top golfer, Tiger Woods. He has re-branded as Vodafone
the firms Japanese subsidiary J-Phone, and in Britain he helped
to launched Vodafone live!, a new service with features such
as picture-messaging.
David Beckham as his performance
in euro 2004 tournament registered as poor identify the next
metro sexual man your self. It's trend and would suppose to
be continued in our society........."Lick my lolly"
and "Bite my cherry" up..up...up!
This much for this time.
Source: The Economist and Business Week magazines of different
published dates.
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